Kurt Evans, culinary director at Drive Change, marinates his chicken in advance to ensure it won’t dry out on the grill, then he bastes it with sauce at the end for the crackliest, stickiest skin. Evans’s homemade barbecue sauce contains just a touch of blackstrap molasses: a rich, dark flavor brought by African American migrants from the Deep South. They used to make it on their rural homesteads from homegrown sugarcane during the time of the Great Migration.
Ingredients
Barbecue Seasoning
- 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar
Chicken and Assembly
- 12 chicken thighs (about 4 lb.)
- Zest and juice of 2 lemons
- 4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2½ tsp. Morton kosher salt
- 5 Tbsp. Barbecue Seasoning, divided
- 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil, plus more for grill
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar
- 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
- 2 Tbsp. unsulfured blackstrap molasses
- 1 Tbsp. Louisiana hot sauce
- 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
Recipe Preparation
Barbecue Seasoning
Whisk paprika, brown sugar, chili powder, garlic powder, and cayenne in a small bowl to combine. Makes about ½ cup.
Do ahead: Seasoning can be made 1 month ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
Chicken and Assembly
Combine chicken and lemon zest and juice in a large bowl; toss to coat. Sprinkle with salt and 4 Tbsp. seasoning and toss again to evenly coat. Cover and let chill at least 2 hours and up to 12 hours.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high. Cook onion and garlic, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add brown sugar; cook, stirring constantly, until sugar turns a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Add remaining 1 Tbsp. seasoning; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add ketchup; cook, stirring, until slightly darkened in color, about 2 minutes. Stir in vinegar, molasses, mustard, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Bring to a boil over high heat; cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes. Transfer to a blender and purée until smooth. Set sauce aside.
Prepare a grill for medium-high indirect heat (for a charcoal grill, bank coals on 1 side; for a gas grill, leave 1–2 burners off). Lightly oil grate. Grill chicken over direct heat, turning every minute, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Move chicken over to indirect heat, cover, positioning vent over chicken if your grill has one, and grill, turning every 5 minutes or so, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of thighs registers 140°–145°, 18–25 minutes. Uncover grill and continue to grill, basting with reserved sauce and turning occasionally, until thermometer registers 165°, about 10 minutes longer.
